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Travellers try to catch one of the last planes leaving Peru

〇图片:旅行者试图赶上离开秘鲁的最后一趟航班

“All flights have been cancelled. The British Embassy in Lima has closed its doors. The emergency helpline it put out on social media rang through to no one”

所有航班均已取消。英国驻利马大使馆已关门。它在社交媒体上发布的紧急求助热线无人接听。

I’ve always wanted to visit Peru. I just wasn’t banking on quite such an extended stay... Following a ten-day trek in the Andean mountains and a bucket-list visit to Machu Picchu, I was back in Cusco raising a cold Cusquena with my guide to celebrate a trip well done. Two hours later, a phone call informed me that I had until midnight the following day to leave the country or that was it: stuck here, in lock-down, for 15 days.

我之前一直想去秘鲁。我只是没想到会住这么久……在安第斯山脉进行了十天的徒步旅行和马丘比丘之旅后,我回到了库斯科,和导游一起开了一瓶酒,庆祝我的旅行圆满结束。两小时后一个电话通知我,我必须在第二天午夜之前离开这个国家,或者就是现在这样:被困在这里,被锁起来,整整15天。

I didn’t make it out. Frantic calls by tour operators to try to find new flights – any flights – were to no avail; I was advised not to bother dashing to the airport – photos showed it was bedlam, with huge non-moving lines and people turned away. Though perhaps it might have been worth a punt – some did make it out. Confusion reigned. There were rumours that extras flights were being put on. Or that even scheduled flights were cancelled. A traveller with a pilot friend said some planes were leaving unfilled, but online searches showed no seats to be had. Some boarded flights to Lima, but didn’t manage to fly out anywhere else before the midnight cut-off so were simply stuck there.

我没把这事弄明白。旅行社拼命打电话寻找新航班——任何航班——都无济于事;有人建议我不要急着去机场——照片显示,机场一片混乱,人们排着长队,一动不动,纷纷转身离开。尽管这也许值得一赌,但有些人还是成功了。毫无秩序,一片混乱。有谣言说要增加航班。甚至定期航班也被取消了。一个旅客有朋友是飞行员,透露说有些飞机没满座飞走了,但网上搜索显示没有空座。一些人登上了飞往利马的航班,但在午夜前也没能飞到其他地方,所以他们就被困在了那里。

Then there were the alternatives. An Australian couple opted to book a private car for a dash to the Bolivian border. From there, they planned to make the long drive to La Paz where – for the time being at least – international flights were still operational, hoping to make it to their final destination. I don’t know if they did – last I saw, they were nervously waiting for their vehicle, booked an hour or so before but yet to arrive.

还有其他选择。一对澳大利亚夫妇选择预订一辆私家车前往玻利维亚边境。从那里,他们计划长途驱车前往拉巴斯,那里的国际航班仍在运行,希望他们能抵达最终目的地。至少目前如此。我不知道他们有没有——我最后看到的是,他们紧张地等着接他们的车,大约一个小时前就预定好了,但还没到。

I was offered a Bolivian bolt myself, but so many what-ifs? If I didn’t reach the border on time, a two-week sojourn in a bit of Peru I didn’t know? If the Bolivian regulations changed,
I might end up with a long stay there instead – a country less developed than Peru. And would I be able to fly out of La Paz anyway? Plus, with the FCO now advising against all but essential travel to Bolivia, I would have no protection from insurance. At least in Peru – also now on the no-go list – the advice changed after my arrival, a slightly better position to be in as my policy is still valid.

也有人给了我去玻利维亚的渠道,但是不确定因素太多了。如果我没能按时到达边境,我会在一个我不知道的秘鲁小地方逗留两周吗?如果玻利维亚的法规改变了,我可能要最终在那个比秘鲁还不发达的国家待上很长时间。那么以后我还能飞出拉巴斯吗?由于英国外交部目前建议,除了必要的旅行外,不要前往玻利维亚。如果我贸然去了,我将没有保险的保护。至少在秘鲁——虽然现在也在黑名单上——这个建议在我到达后改变了,所以这里是一个稍微好一点的位置,因为我当时去秘鲁时候的政策仍然有效。

So here I am. Confined to a house, only allowed out to pop to the shop or pharmacy (the streets being policed), with little official support. Helpfully, as the Peruvian government announced its restrictions, the British Embassy in Lima closed its doors. The emergency helpline it put out on social media rang through to no one.

所以我现在的情况就是这样。我在这被关在房子里,没有任何政府工作人员来帮我,我只被允许外出去商店或药店(街上有警察巡逻)。当秘鲁政府宣布这种限制措施的时候,“给力的”英国驻利马大使馆却关了大门,在社交媒体上发布的紧急求助电话也无人接听。



Sarah''''s view for the foreseeable future

萨拉对可预见未来的看法

Paul Cripps, owner of Cusco-based tour operator Amazonas Explorers has been fielding cancellation after cancellation, and is having to make tough decisions over refunds and staff, his whole business turned on its head. For the guides and porters, who should be busy on the trails, it’s a disaster – they are freelance, with no wages or employment benefit to fall back on, and no hope of finding other similar employment as the whole industry suffers.

保罗·克里普斯是总部在库斯科的旅游公司“亚马逊探索者”的老板,他已经接到了一个又一个取消订单的消息。他不得不在退款和保留员工方面做出艰难决定,他的整个生意都陷入了混乱中。

This potentially has wider reaching consequences. During the recession of 2007/8, some locals who lost their jobs in tourism turned to alternatives to survive such as illegal logging and mining. Anything to make ends meet. “Tourism maintains so many people doing good things,” says Cripps.

这可能会产生更广泛的影响。在2007 - 2008年的经济衰退中,一些失去旅游业工作的当地人转而寻求其他谋生之道,比如非法伐木和采矿。人们会做任何事来维持生计。“旅游业保证了让很多人做好事,”克里普斯说。

He adds: “It’s the end-of-the-line person who is going to be shafted. The poorest people are going to suffer the most.”

他补充道:“最终是那些穷途末路的人会铤而走险。最穷的人会遭受最大的损失。”